This upscale chowder is simple enough for a weeknight meal, yet elegant enough for entertaining. Serve with crusty bread and mixed greens tossed with a lemony vinaigrette.

4 slices thick-cut bacon (about 4 ounces), cut into 1/8-inch dice
2 Oso Sweet onions (about 1 1/4 pounds), quartered, then thinly sliced
1 1/2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 pound sweet potatoes (red-skinned, yam variety), peeled, cut into 1/4-inch dice
3 bottles (8 ounces each) clam juice
1 1/2 pounds skinless salmon fillet*, cut into 1/2-inch dice
2 cups half-and-half or light cream
1/2 cup (lightly packed) chopped fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon salt, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, or to taste
Dash of cayenne pepper

Cook bacon in a large soup pot, stirring frequently, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon; reserve. Stir onions into the bacon fat remaining in pan; cook, stirring, until soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in potatoes and clam juice; bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium and cook until potatoes are just tender, about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to low; stir in salmon. Cook until salmon is just firm and opaque, about 5 minutes. Add half-and-half, stirring, until heated through. Stir in reserved bacon and cilantro. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Yield: Makes about 10 cups

*For variation, substitute coarsely diced shrimp and/or scallops for the salmon, or combine the three for a seafood melange.